As a magician waving a wand, Estelle distils this into an array of dishes that feed both body and soul in the most delightful and tempting manner. From humble but comforting soups, through nourishing bowls and elegant meals to impress, to bountiful platters, you won’t be able to resist.
Meatballs
with a Rustic Napolitana Sauce
“Meatballs are a classic, and with good reason. The little spheres of deliciousness are simple, healthy and inexpensive, and definitely not just for pairing with spaghetti. I often serve them with char-grilled vegetables – courgettes, peppers, sweet potatoes – or a nutty grain such as couscous. They work well on their own, in a bowl, immersed in napolitana sauce. Like most kids, my children loved meatballs, and my grandchildren do too. So does my husband. They are fun, succulent and comforting, and I return to my old favourite recipe time and time again. It works, always, which is why it’s always a favourite. If you have ciabatta on hand, warm it in the oven until crispy – torn chunks love that leftover sauce, especially when speckled with bits of mince.”
Serves: 4
¼ cup fresh breadcrumbs
½ cup water
1kg lean beef mince
2 eggs
½ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley, plus extra for garnishing
½ clove garlic, crushed (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Olive oil for frying
3 cups napolitana sauce
Chopped fresh basil for garnishing
In a bowl, combine the breadcrumbs and water until all the water is absorbed. Add the mince, eggs, parsley, garlic (if using), salt and pepper. Roll the mixture into balls, but grease your hands with a little olive oil to prevent the meatballs from sticking.
Heat some olive oil in a pan, then fry the meatballs in batches until just brown. Drain them on paper towel before arranging them in a baking dish. Pour over the napolitana sauce.
Bake the meatballs in an oven preheated to 180°C for 20 minutes, but ensure that they don’t overcook. Serve with spaghetti (or other pasta of your choice), garnished with parsley and/or basil.
Fragrant Massaman Lamb Curry
“My nephew is an adventurous, self-taught chef. This massaman curry, made with a deboned shoulder of lamb, is his experiment, but since trying it I’m completely devoted. It is a mild yet spicy fusion of Thai- and Indian-style curries, taking its cue from the traditional components: dry whole spices including cinnamon, star anise, cumin and coriander. The sauce is thick, rich and steeped with spiciness, and noteworthy for the presence of whole peanuts. Slightly sweet from the coconut milk, it is chock-full of flavour, interesting and moreish. Lamb is so well suited to this dish, becoming soft and bold as it cooks, but you could substitute tofu or lentils for a vegetarian option. I make a batch of the unforgettable paste and keep it in the fridge. And if you have leftovers, be happy as this curry tastes better as it develops.”
Serves: 4–6
400ml coconut milk
3 cups beef stock
2kg deboned shoulder of lamb
400g baby potatoes, halved
2 brown onions, sliced
100g unsalted peanuts, plus extra for garnishing
1 star anise
1 stick cinnamon
Fresh coriander or rocket for garnishing
MASSAMAN PASTE
4 tsp cumin seeds
4 tsp coriander seeds
2 red onions, sliced
5 cloves garlic, peeled
2 red chillies
2/3 cup peeled and thinly sliced fresh ginger
2 stalks lemon grass, minced
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp cardamom seeds
1 Tbsp brown sugar
1 tsp ground cloves
4 tsp salt
1/3 cup coconut milk (to bind paste)
To prepare the paste, toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small pan for 3 minutes, tossing them so that they don’t burn. Blend the toasted seeds with the remaining paste ingredients in a food processor until a thick mixture forms. Store the paste in a glass jar in the fridge for up to 1 week.
Preheat the oven to 140°C.
Mix the curry paste with the coconut milk and stock into a sauce. Place the lamb in a deep roasting dish. Add the potatoes, onions and peanuts. Pour the sauce over the lamb, ensuring that it’s well coated. Add the star anise and cinnamon. Cover the dish with 2 layers of foil and roast in the oven for 4–5 hours.
Remove the dish from the oven, turn the lamb over and roast for another hour, still covered. It should be brown on both sides. Remove from the oven and skim off excess fat from the top. Pull the lamb apart in chunks and mix into the sauce in the roasting dish.
Garnish with extra peanuts and fresh coriander or rocket. Serve with rice and rotis.
Portobello Mushroom Lasagne
“For me, the portobello is the ideal mushroom. I marvel at its meaty, earthy tones and how it infuses those irresistible umami notes. It really is unsurpassed in this lasagne, a dish typically associated with mince, and yet these baby bella mushrooms magically create a comparable depth of flavour; meatiness without the meat. Of course, a good crisp, dry white wine helps, layering the stock with complexity and cutting through any acidity (and drinkable with the meal, obviously!). The shallots, more delicate and less sharp than onions, add a subtle sense of garlic, which partners well with the mushrooms. The texture is creamy, but not overtly so, which – fortunately or unfortunately – enables me to enjoy seconds. I don’t think the dish needs a side, but if you want one, I suggest a simple, leafy green salad with a lemony vinaigrette.”
Serves: 4–6
½ x 250g box lasagne sheets
Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for sprinkling
Chopped fresh chives for sprinkling
MUSHROOM LAYERS
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cups chopped shallots
1kg portobello mushrooms (or a mix of mushrooms of your choice), sliced
1 tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
½ cup chopped fresh thyme
3 cloves garlic, chopped
¾ cup dry white wine
250g smooth cream cheese
½ cup chopped fresh chives
SAUCE
3 Tbsp butter
3 cups milk
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
¼ tsp paprika
1⁄3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
3 Tbsp cake wheat flour (or more if necessary)
To prepare the mushroom layers, heat the olive oil in a large pan and fry the shallots for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, salt and pepper, then fry until the mushrooms are browned. Add the thyme and garlic, and fry for another 3 minutes. Pour in the wine and cook until the liquid has evaporated. Remove from the heat and fold in the cream cheese and chives.
For the sauce, heat the butter in a medium saucepan, then stir in the milk, salt, pepper, paprika and parsley. Add the flour and whisk until slightly thickened. Adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Preheat the oven to 180°C and grease a 18 x 25cm baking dish.
Spoon half the mushroom mixture into the prepared dish. Cover it with pasta sheets. Spread some of the sauce over the sheets. Repeat the layers, ending with the sauce. Sprinkle the Parmigiano-Reggiano and chives on top. Bake for 15–20 minutes. Lasagne must rest for 10 minutes before serving.
NOTE
You may substitute portobello mushrooms with brown, cremini, shiitake, or porcini. Clean them beforehand with damp paper towel or a damp pastry brush, gently removing any dirt. But please don’t soak them; they easily absorb water and will generate too much liquid during cooking.
Portuguese Platter
“The flavours of Portuguese cuisine represent a blend of Mediterranean cultures. I love the Portuguese penchant for coriander, paprika and chillies, and those gorgeous, vivid red sweet peppers. The dishes are lively; a culinary expression of the country’s character, where food is eaten with gusto. One of my husband’s favourite meals is Portuguese chicken, cooked with all those heated spices. I often prepare it spatchcocked, but this platter can be made with individual pieces. I suggest wings, which can be eaten with the hands and the sauce relished from the fingertips (a joyful way to eat). If you prefer legs, thighs or breasts, those will work too. The marinade embodies heat and smoke. Add chillies according to your liking. I include extra sauce in a bowl, perfect for dipping Portuguese rolls. Crispy potatoes as a side (page 134) are also an option. In summer, this recipe is great for the barbecue; the flame will catch the skin, turning it dark and crispy.”
Serves: 4
12 chicken wings
Chicken spice to taste
Fresh parsley for garnishing
Whole chillies for garnishing (optional)
Lemon wedges for serving (optional)
Mini Portuguese rolls for serving
Crispy potatoes for serving (optional)
A bowl red chillies, deseeded and chopped, for serving (optional)
MARINADE
2 red peppers, halved and deseeded
Olive oil for brushing
2 red chillies, finely chopped
1 Tbsp smoked paprika
1 Tbsp dried oregano
4 cloves fresh garlic, crushed
1½ cups lemon juice
2 Tbsp brown sugar
2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
First prepare the marinade. Preheat the oven to 180°C.
Arrange the red peppers on a roasting tray and brush them with olive oil. Roast them until tender, then peel and chop roughly. Combine all the marinade ingredients, including the roasted peppers.
Season the chicken wings with the chicken spice then brush with half the marinade. Marinate in the fridge overnight, or for a few hours before cooking.
Preheat the oven to 190°C. Place the chicken wings in a roasting dish and roast for 20 minutes on one side. Turn the wings over, brush with more marinade and roast for a further 20 minutes or until the wings are cooked and crispy.
Spoon the roasting liquid from the dish into a pot with the reserved marinade and heat before serving. Serve the wings on a platter, garnished with fresh parsley, whole chillies (if using), with a bowl of the heated marinade, lemon wedges (if using), mini Portuguese rolls, crispy potatoes and chopped chillies on the side, if using.
Couscous
with Pistachio and Pomegranate
“Couscous is a wonderfully nutty Middle Eastern grain made from semolina. I invariably serve it in a small bowl with dishes inspired by the flavours of the region, such as Moroccan fish. In this recipe, which could be used as a salad, it provides little pops of pink. It’s easy to assemble and can be refrigerated. Fluff it up with a fork before serving, or sprinkle over roasted vegetables that have been baked with a Moroccan rub. It embodies the aromas of North Africa as well as its warm and molten topographical colours. Couscous also harbours a little secret – it contains selenium, which is so good for us. Overall it is delicate and satisfying, and looks inviting with chopped fresh Italian parsley."
Serves: 4
2 cups uncooked couscous
2½ cups boiling water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 Tbsp olive oil
Juice of ½ lemon
½ cup lightly roasted pistachios
¾ cup pomegranate seeds
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
Place the couscous in a heatproof bowl and pour over the boiling water. Cover with clingfilm and leave to stand for 15 minutes. When it has cooled slightly, fluff the grains with a fork, season with salt and pepper then mix in the olive oil and lemon juice.
To serve, heat the couscous and scatter over the roasted pistachios, pomegranate seeds and parsley.
The All-Time Flawless Cheesecake
“As a little girl I only loved my mother’s cheesecake. I don’t know why. Loyalty perhaps, or because I was suspicious of such a thing – it did not seem like a cake at all – and therefore I only trusted the version my mother and I made together. I fear I have missed out – a confession I finally made when I tasted my great friend Beila’s recipe. She is a marvellous baker. Over the years we have shared the most cherished moments of our lives … and the most cherished recipes. She is known about town for her delectable cheesecake and I have made it many times. This version is based on Beila’s original recipe, with the addition of ginger in the sour cream topping. I love cooking with ginger; it enhances dishes both sweet and savoury. Embodying warm, spicy tones, it isn’t bitter, but it does have bite. It is earthy and citrusy, melding into the sour cream, and forming a robust base to the dense, creamy filling (laced with brandy, yum). I think my mother would be proud.”
Serves: 8
Preserved ginger in syrup, sliced, for decorating
Fresh cherries for decorating (optional)
Fresh mint for decorating (optional)
BASE
1¼ packets ginger biscuits, crushed
125g butter
FILLING
1kg smooth cream cheese
2 heaped Tbsp potato flour
1 cup sugar
1 cup thick cream
4 jumbo eggs
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp whisky or brandy
1 tsp vanilla essence
SOUR CREAM TOPPING
1 cup sour cream
1 Tbsp ginger syrup
1 drop vanilla essence
Preheat the oven to 170°C.
To make the base, mix the ginger biscuit crumbs and melted butter together, then press onto the base of a 24cm springform tin. Bake for 5 minutes and remove from the oven to cool (but leave the oven on for the next baking).
For the filling, combine the cream cheese, flour, sugar and cream in the bowl of a mixer at a slow speed. Add the eggs, one at a time, and beat slowly after each addition. Add the lemon juice, whisky or brandy, and vanilla, then mix. Pour the mixture into the springform tin over the biscuit base and bake for 20 minutes. Switch off the oven and leave the cake inside until the oven is cool. Remove from the oven and refrigerate.
Beat the sour cream topping ingredients together on a slow speed. Spoon over the chilled cheesecake and decorate with the ginger slices, as well as cherries and mint, if using.
Extracted from It’s All About the Food, out now.
